How to Clean Leather Shoes: Step-by-Step Guide for Every Type 

Leather shoes require different cleaning approaches depending on the type of leather surface: smooth leather, suede and nubuck, and patent leather all respond differently to the same cleaning materials, and using the wrong approach on the wrong surface causes more damage than not cleaning at all. This guide covers the correct cleaning sequence for each leather type, how to handle common stains, and how to follow up cleaning with conditioning to keep every pair in its best condition. For the complete leather boots and shoes guide, see our leather boots guide. 

What You Need Before You Start 

The basic cleaning kit for smooth leather shoes requires: a horsehair brush for dry brushing, a soft cloth or chamois, a purpose-made leather cleaner (saddle soap or a pH-neutral leather cleaner), a leather conditioner, and a cream or wax polish in a color matching the shoe. A second brush or buffing cloth completes the kit. All of these should be specific to leather; household cleaners, dish soap, and multi-surface sprays damage leather fibers and should never be used on any leather footwear. Explore our leather shoes collection for quality examples. 

For suede and nubuck, the kit is different: a dedicated suede brush (usually a rubber or brass-wire brush), a suede eraser for scuffs, and a suede protector spray. Never use smooth leather polish, cream, or conditioner on suede — these products clog the nap permanently. For patent leather, use a purpose-made patent leather cleaner or a very lightly dampened cloth. A soft cloth slightly dipped in petroleum jelly can restore gloss to patent leather, but avoid this if the surface is cracked. Our leather sandals section shows suede and smooth leather options side by side. 

Cleaning Smooth Leather Shoes 

Start by brushing the entire shoe with a horsehair brush to remove any surface dust, grit, or loose dirt. Pay particular attention to the welt (the seam between the upper and sole) and the crease across the vamp, where debris accumulates. Brushing before any liquid is applied prevents grit from scratching the leather when you wipe it. This step is also the one most frequently skipped, which is why many shoes show micro-scratches from cleaning rather than from wear. See our black leather boots section for leather types that benefit most from brushing. 

Apply leather cleaner to a soft cloth — not directly to the shoe — and work it into the surface in gentle circular motions. Use minimal product: a thin, even application is more effective than a heavy one. The cleaner dissolves dirt and surface oils that have become contaminated. Wipe away excess with a clean dry cloth and allow it it to dry for five to ten minutes before proceeding to conditioning. Saddle soap is effective but slightly drying; follow it immediately with a conditioner to restore oils. All orders are dispatched within five to seven working days with duties & taxes paid (DDP). See our delivery policy for details. 

Conditioning: Restoring What Cleaning Removes 

Conditioning replaces the natural oils that leather loses through wear, heat, and the cleaning process itself. Apply a leather conditioner or cream to the clean, dry shoe with a soft cloth or fingertip, working it in evenly. Pay extra attention to the vamp crease, the heel, and anywhere the leather has begun to look dry or lighter in color. Allow it to absorb for five to ten minutes, then buff off any excess with a clean cloth. A leather that is never conditioned will eventually crack at stress points regardless of how carefully it is otherwise maintained. Our women’s leather boots section shows hides that respond well to conditioning. 

How often to condition depends on the shoe, the climate, and how frequently the shoe is worn. As a general rule, condition every four to six weeks for shoes worn regularly or whenever the leather begins to look lighter or feels dry to the touch. In dry or cold climates, conditioning may be needed more frequently. In high-humidity climates, less often. After any exposure to rain or prolonged moisture, allow the shoe to dry naturally at room temperature and condition it before wearing again. Visit our leather boots guide for the full leather footwear care overview. 

Suede and Nubuck: Different Rules 

Suede and nubuck have a napped surface that requires a different approach from smooth leather. Use a suede brush (rubber or brass-wire) to gently restore the nap after wear—always brush in one direction, not in circles. For dry stains and light scuffs, a suede eraser removes the mark by abrading the surface slightly. For liquid stains, blot immediately with a clean cloth without rubbing, allow them to dry completely, then brush the nap to restore it. Do not apply smooth leather conditioner, polish, or cream to suede or nubuck under any circumstances. Explore our ankle leather boots for suede-style options. 

Preventive protection is more important for suede and nubuck than for smooth leather because damage is harder to reverse. Apply a waterproofing spray (specifically labeled for suede and nubuck) before first wear and reapply every four to six weeks or after significant moisture exposure. This does not make the shoe waterproof, but it significantly reduces the absorption rate and makes stain removal easier. A basic suede care kit costs under $25 and meaningfully extends the life of suede footwear. For custom leather footwear specifications, visit our bespoke process. 

Polishing and the Final Step 

Polish is applied to clean, conditioned smooth leather to add color depth, surface gloss, and a thin protective layer. Cream polishes nourish while adding color; wax polishes add a harder, higher-gloss finish on top. Apply in thin coats, allow each coat to dry, and then buff. For a high-gloss mirror shine (known as boning or spit-shining), apply very thin layers of wax polish with a fingertip moistened with a drop of water, building up gradually. For everyday maintenance, a cream polish applied and buffed is sufficient and more nourishing. Visit our leather loafers section for smooth leather footwear that polishes well. 

Polish buildup accumulates over time and can crack, forming a layer on top of the leather rather than nourishing it. If you see polish flaking off the surface or the shoe looking crazed, strip with a leather cleaner and start again from clean leather. Most quality leather shoes benefit from a full strip-and-restart cycle once or twice a year. For custom leather goods, visit our customize studio. 

Frequently Asked Questions 

Can you machine wash leather shoes? 

No. Machine washing forces water deep into the leather fibers and the welt or adhesive construction, weakening glue, shrinking the leather, and potentially warping the last the shoe was built on. It also removes the natural oils that keep leather supple, leaving it dry and prone to cracking after drying. All leather shoe cleaning should be done by hand with appropriate cleaners applied sparingly to a soft cloth. 

How do I remove salt stains from leather shoes? 

Mix equal parts white vinegar and water and apply to the salt stain with a soft cloth. Gently work in circles and blot rather than rubbing. Allow to dry, then condition the leather immediately, as vinegar can dry the fibers. Salt stains that have been present for some time may require two or three applications. Always condition after any salt stain treatment to restore the oils that salt naturally draws out of leather. 

What is the difference between cleaning and conditioning? 

Cleaning removes dirt, grime, sweat residue, and surface contaminants from the leather. Conditioning replaces the oils that leather loses through wear, heat, and cleaning itself. You clean first, then condition; conditioning over a dirty surface traps contaminants in the leather. Conditioning is typically needed more often than cleaning: most leather shoes need conditioning every four to six weeks but only need a full clean monthly or when visibly soiled. 

How often should I polish leather shoes? 

Formal leather shoes that are worn regularly benefit from a cream polish every two to four weeks to maintain color depth and the protective layer on the surface. Wax polish for high gloss can be done monthly or before important occasions. Overpolishing buildup can crack and look worse than no polish; if you see polish flaking off the surface, strip it with a leather cleaner and start again from clean leather. Casual leather shoes can be polished less frequently. 

Can I use baby wipes or household cleaners on leather shoes? 

Baby wipes are often used in a pinch for light surface cleaning and do not cause immediate damage, but they contain moisturizers and alcohol that can leave a residue and are not formulated for leather. Household cleaners (dish soap, multi-surface sprays) should never be used on leather: they strip the natural oils and can leave alkaline residue that dries out and damages the leather over time. Use purpose-made leather cleaners and conditioners for all leather footwear care.